Hey guys, first time posting here! I have done some searching on this and have a question or two: I just got a new receiver and TV. The receiver has a left and right output per channel (it does 7.1 max). I currently have a 5.1 setup. Center channel, 2 front speakers (Definitive Tech BP2000), 2 rear tower speakers, and a sub. I have everything wired but the front BP2000 speakers.
Download 144 Definitive Technology Speaker System PDF manuals. User manuals, Definitive Technology Speaker System Operating guides and Service manuals. Definitive Technology BP2000 Manuals & User Guides. User Manuals, Guides and Specifications for your Definitive Technology BP2000 Speakers, Speaker System. Database contains 3 Definitive Technology BP2000 Manuals (available for free online viewing or downloading in PDF): Special test report, Brochure. Audio manuals and audio service pdf instructions. Find the user manual you need for your audio device and more at ManualsOnline. Discuss: Definitive Technology BP 30 - speakers - wired Series Sign in to comment. Be respectful, keep it civil and stay on topic. We delete comments that violate our policy, which we encourage. Definitive Technology BP2000TL Manuals & User Guides. User Manuals, Guides and Specifications for your Definitive Technology BP2000TL Speakers, Speaker System. Database contains 3 Definitive Technology BP2000TL Manuals (available for free online viewing or downloading in PDF): Brochure, Special test report.
I have asked this question before, and never recieved an answer.do you Def Tech owners (with built in powered subs) use the speakers wired direct. An ic (may or may not remove any jumper depending on def techs instructions), and have the speakers set to large. This would give you NO LFE though,.
Here is a picture of the rear wiring inputs: How do I wire these? I have them in the low portion right now and it works.
I was reading on some other threads about having to all the grounds on H/M/L connected together, and the powers of the H/M/L connected together as well, then run my inputs into those. Question being, how would I go about doing that? They're banana plugs, so would I have to put a plug into each input with a wire out the back, then twist them together and put an end on that? The monster wire I am running BARELY fits into one banana plug, so I doubt I could get 3 wires worth into a plug, even if I strip it down to the copper innards. I thought about 2 into 1 adapter, so I could hook up the High and Medium, then use the 1 wire to connect another 2 into 1 adapter into the H/M wire and the Low wire, then connect my input into that, but that would look extremely. Also worried about the sound being degraded. I just got a huge roll of monster cable and monster ends for EVERYTHING.
Definitive Technology Bp2000 Owners Manual
So with the wire and connectors and TV/receiver being used, I only want to do this once and do it RIGHT. Thanks for any help guys! EDIT: Don't mind the dust, that will be cleaned up! Originally Posted by Jeezus Just wanted to drop a line back in here: Went and fiddled with it some, turns out the gold outline is actual gold. It looks like the store I bought it from many moons ago installed these by unscrewing the banana plugs and putting the bridge on it, then screwing it back in.
I have since taken the input plugs and put them in the middle. Subwoofer is turned up because it is pointing right next to my cabinet towers.
I will get a picture for you guys in a few. With the gold plated connectors connecting your connections from the High/Mid and lows it doesnt matter where you stick the banana plugs because they are all getting the same input. Now if you pull the connector off of the low input and run the connector on the High and Mid you will have to run either speaker wire to the Low or use the RCA Full Range or LFE to power the woofer. As was suggested no matter if your woofer is up against something or not you shouldn't run it above 10-1 Oclock because the bass becomes bloated and doesnt sound right.
If the woofer is that tight against your ET Center you should switch them to the opposite sides so the woofer points outward. Your towers need some breathing room as well. You didnt say how much room you have from the front wall and the side walls. But hopefully you know that the bipolar towars need 16-24' from the front wall and the same if not more from the side walls. Definitely need to get that dust off of your connections, in the end you should potentially short out your Low Level amp as that dust does end up grounding out and will jump across just like you have a wired connected directly from the positve to the negative side.
Then you will end up having to replace a BP2000 amp and I dont think you want to do that. Back to answer some more of the questions. Here is the set up right now. Sorry for the bad camera phone pictures! I will be swapping the 2 front tower speakers since the subwoofers on them are pointing inwards and there is about 3' of space between the speakers and the media towers.
Regarding the distance from the wall, the BP2000TL's are about 6' from them. There wouldn't be a way we can move them to the recommended distances because it would be too much in the way. They are already flush with the front of the media towers.
It isn't a big deal, the room this is in has an 18 foot ceiling that plays hell with the sound, not to mention the heating bill! Just got the new 4 color TV installed. If you can see, the old TV (57' Panasonic HD TV) is in the far right corner. Just found this thread.
Here is my opinion. I have the BP2002tl's, I have spent literally, days messing with this. I believe if you want the best sound out of these speakers, you want to hook them up in the 'full range' configuration. To do this, (use pre-existing LFE cables) u will need to use your L/R pre-outs to connect to your speaker 'full range' RCA connection and turn your subs off in the onkyo. There is no splitting of the signal and your bass in the towers will sound tighter.
Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of 'full range', 'L/R pre-outs' and turning off your subs at the receiver.
Can you dumb it down and ELI5? I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages. Thanks a bunch. Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology?
I didn't quite understand the meaning of 'full range', 'L/R pre-outs' and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5? I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages.
Thanks a bunch Function, this is a pretty old thread, I'll try to answer your questions. There are normally two different connections offered for the Supertower, it changes from speaker to speaker throughout the years. One is like the picture above with an RCA input and 3 separate speaker wire connections, one for each driver array all joined by the jumper bars you see in the picture.
The other has the RCA connection and just one speaker wire connection. (The arrays are joined internally) The RCA connection is a Low Level / Pre-Amp connection for the powered woofer section of the speaker. The reason these exist is that, since the woofers are powered they are fed with a low level input into the internal amp for the woofer, when you use just the speaker wire (which is high level) all of the low signals, below the speakers crossover, has to be then filtered/reduced back to low level before it can be fed into the amp and then played by the woofer.
By using the low level / RCA input from your receiver directly to the speaker that signal is already at the proper level and doesn't have to be 'processed' down an extra time, basic train of thought is less processing = cleaner signal. As for the connection to your receiver, this will depend on may factors: Are you using separate Subs?
Your room in general and it's individual acoustics? Your personal listening preference? Your exact speakers? (Midrange size and Woofer size will vary the connection also) Connection options are: Speakers: 1) Just speaker wire.
(most common and easiest choice) 2) Speaker Wire and RCA input. (If you have speakers with more than one pair of wire connections as above, you MUST! Pull the jumpers between the low and mid connection, you CANNOT run Low Level and High Level into the internal amp at the same time, YOU WILL FRY IT.) Receiver: 1) Speaker Wire only. 2) Speaker Wire and RCA from Full Range Pre-outs (L/R Front) 3) Speaker Wire and RCA from LFE Each of these may or may not give you different results, sorry to say that it will take a lot of experimenting and personal listening to figure out which is best for you, as I said before, your Receiver, Room, Personal Taste and Other Speakers will play a huge role in figuring out what it's best for you or if any changes are even worth your time. Any questions you can PM me or ask it in the Definitive Owners thread: We check it quite often. Hope this helps.
Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of 'full range', 'L/R pre-outs' and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5? I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages. Thanks a bunch Tx Altloff. I couldn't have have said it better. Hey Function0, Just to let you I know have done a few more things since this thread.
First is that I added a dedicated power amp. The one thing I kept struggling with is that speakers just didn't seem to have the punch I was looking for.
I 'thought' I had adequate power, and I use that term loosely, since my Onkyo was a higher end unit. What I found was that the Def Techs are power hungry!! I just wasn't getting enough power to them. This was verified when I had to return the PA because of a defect and had to re-hookup the speakers back to the Onkyo. What a difference. With the speakers connected to the PA, they came alive.
Even my wife noticed a difference. I got that definition that I was looking for. I got an insane deal on a Sherbourne PA7-350. That's right, 350 ohms per channel, 7 channels driven. Now I have to be careful I don't fry my crossover, again. (Did it once already, cuz I had to see how loud it would get). Second thing I did was add a dedicated sub woofer.
That took the responsibility of that low frequency away from the the speakers and placed it where it needed to be at, in the sub. So my final wiring of the speakers is bi-wired to the PA. With the high knobs getting their own wire and the mid and low knobs connected together. My Onkyo is set to full range and letting the subs in the Def Techs handle all the low end that the receiver will give it and I have the sub turned on for the low freq.
I hope that helps. Just ask if you have more questions. I'm sorry I found this thread kind of confusing. Tommy says '2) Speaker Wire and RCA input. (If you have speakers with more than one pair of wire connections as above, you MUST!
Pull the jumpers between the low and mid connection, you CANNOT run Low Level and High Level into the internal amp at the same time, YOU WILL FRY IT.)' from what I read it says the guys current setup will fry his internal amp? Logplot 7 crack free download. Or am I wrong? I just inherited a pair of BP2000's from my father and need help hooking them up to my Denon AVR-X3000 Currently, I have 5.1 surround sound powered by tiny B&W MD80s ( i think) I would like to add these BP2000 as my new two front speakers and the MD80's as my front high's How should I go about wiring up the back of the BP2000's to connect to my denon without blowing it out? I'm sorry I found this thread kind of confusing. Tommy says '2) Speaker Wire and RCA input. (If you have speakers with more than one pair of wire connections as above, you MUST!
Pull the jumpers between the low and mid connection, you CANNOT run Low Level and High Level into the internal amp at the same time, YOU WILL FRY IT.)' from what I read it says the guys current setup will fry his internal amp? Or am I wrong? I just inherited a pair of BP2000's from my father and need help hooking them up to my Denon AVR-X3000 Currently, I have 5.1 surround sound powered by tiny B&W MD80s ( i think) I would like to add these BP2000 as my new two front speakers and the MD80's as my front high's How should I go about wiring up the back of the BP2000's to connect to my denon without blowing it out? Just start with the basic connection, speaker wire only, with all of the jumpers in place, everything still works as it should, then later once you're a little more familiar with then and you feel like experimenting, then we can go from there. But stick with the basics first, you may not ever change then.
Definitive Technology BP 2000 Loudspeaker Definitive Technology BP 2000 Loudspeaker Since its inception, Definitive Technology has specialized in bipolar loudspeaker designs. Bipolar speakers typically have duplicate groups of drivers, facing to the front and rear and driven in phase. That con figuration gives nearly omnidirectional response in the horizontal plane, with just a slight reduction in output to the sides at middle and high frequencies. Bipolar speakers, when placed a few feet from the wall behind them, tend to add a quality of spaciousness to the sound, creating a somewhat more realistic soundstage than conventional speaker designs.
In addition, the multiple drivers can handle more power than a standard configuration for a given distortion level (or, conversely, will generate less distortion for a given sound-pressure level). Another potential benefit of the bipolar configuration is a narrower cabinet width, since low frequencies can be handled very effectively by two modestly sized woofers instead of a single larger one. That enables the de signer to use a smaller panel width for a given level of bass performance, minimizing the enclosure 'footprint.' But in the case of Definitive Technology's latest bipolar speaker, the BP 2000, the most distinctive (albeit virtually invisible) feature is a built-in powered subwoofer.
The result is a reason ably compact speaker system with truly prodigious bass extension and out put capability. That is not to say that the BP 2000 is exactly a small speaker - each one measures 50 inches high, 9 inches wide, and 16 inches deep and weighs an impressive 120 pounds - yet it can be used effectively in al most any size room without visually dominating the decor. Styled like most previous Definitive Technology bipolar speakers, the BP 2000 is a slender column covered with a black elastic 'sock' over its full height on the front, sides, and about two-thirds of the rear panel. The top is a piano-finish, black-lacquered wood en plate that is easily removed for pulling down the cloth sock and exposing the drivers. The speaker's base is a similarly finished wooden plate. The system is also available with cherry endcaps.
For a tighter contact with the floor, optional spikes are available. Although the BP 2000 is relatively tall and deep, side placement of the subwoofer driver enables the cabinet to remain as narrow as those of most other Definitive Technology speakers, and it occupies only about a square foot of floor space. If the speakers are slightly angled toward the listening position (for optimum stereo imaging), they are surprisingly inconspicuous.
Lifting off the top plate and pulling down the grille sock reveals the driver complement. On the upper half of the front panel is a pair of 6¾-inch cone woofers (their effective cone diameter is about 5½ inches each) vertically flanking a 1-inch aluminum-dome tweeter in the popular D'Appolito configuration. The tweeter is offset slightly to one side of the panel's vertical midline, which may have been done as much to minimize the spacing between the woofers as for any imaging benefit. The woofers have cast magnesium baskets and compliant rubber surrounds. The rear panel holds an identical trio of drivers, located directly behind the front array. Definitive Technology says the cabinet interior is divided into separate enclosure volumes that give the front and rear sections slightly different low-frequency cutoff frequencies, apparently to compensate for the closer proximity of the rear drivers to the wall. The rear tweeter is also off set, in the opposite direction from the front tweeter.
The lower half of the cabinet is devoted to the subwoofer and its 300 watt amplifier. The subwoofer itself is a massive 15-inch driver with an actual cone diameter of 13 inches, mounted on the side of the cabinet. Designed as mirror-image pairs, the BP 2000 can be used with the sub woofers facing either outward or inward (the latter is recommended because of the slightly increased coupling between the two subwoofers).
Incidentally, when the speaker's top is removed and the cabinet edges exposed, you can see that the side holding the subwoofer is 1¼ inches thick, compared to 1 inch for the front and rear panels and 3/4 inch for the other side. A knuckle-rap test suggested that the structure is about as rigid as a brick or a cinder block.
Although we could not see inside the enclosure, it is evidently strongly braced. The bottom of the cabinet contains the subwoofer amplifier and its associated crossover components. Covering the bottom 15 inches of the rear of the enclosure is a metal panel with input connectors, amplifier heat sinks, a power switch, a line fuse, a sensitivity switch, and knobs for adjusting the bass equalization and level.
Price is $3,000 per pair. The BP 2000 offers a variety of connection options. It has three pairs of five-way binding posts (labeled HIGH, MID, and LOW), which accept single or dual banana plugs, wires, or lugs and are normally connected in parallel by gold-plated metal jumpers. The simplest connection uses only the wires that would normally connect your amplifier or receiver to conventional speakers. You can also bi-wire or tri-wire the speakers, with separate cables to each section, by removing the appropriate jumpers. Yet another possibility is to drive the subwoofer portion of the system from the line-level out puts of a preamplifier equipped with two sets of full-range line outputs (or Y adaptors could be used to turn each of a single set of outputs into two).
Each speaker has a RCA phono-jack input to its subwoofer amplifier that can accept a full-range signal and pass it through the speaker's internal low-pass filter. A twelve-page instruction manual describes the procedure for setting the subwoofer controls. The criteria for final adjustment are purely subjective, based on when it sounds 'right' to you. In addition to the usual level control, there is a low-frequency equalization control for fine-tuning the balance between the low bass (under 50 Hz) and the upper bass (50 to 100 Hz). The procedure is not complicated, and the instructions point out that (as with separate subwoofers) there is no absolutely 'correct' setting. You are encouraged to experiment with the settings to discover the one that best suits your own taste.
Normally the subwoofers of the two speakers will be set identically, but the manual points out that you can compensate for asymmetrical positioning of the left and right speakers (which could affect their low-bass performance) by using different subwoofer level and equalization settings for them. Although the speakers have sub woofer power switches, there is no problem in leaving them energized continuously, since they use very little power at idle (we never shut them off during several weeks of use). The heat sinks never became more than faintly warm, even after extended operation at high volume levels. For the most part, we were able to test the BP 2000's as we do all speakers. The averaged room response of the left and right speakers, based on a swept warble-tone signal, was exceptionally uniform, with several minor ripples of less than 3 dB. That smoothness was verified by an MLS quasi anechoic measurement. Our measurements closely resembled the response curves supplied to us by Definitive Technology, which were made using a totally different procedure and in a very different environment.
All the response curves exhibited a series of small ripples, with a peak-to peak amplitude of 3 to 4 dB, across the range from 300 Hz to 20 kHz. Our close-miked measurement of the subwoofer's response agreed exactly with the manufacturer's data, including the effect of its equalizer control. In its middle position, which we used for listening and measurements, the subwoofer response was ±3 dB from 23 to 100 Hz. In the range between 100 and 300 Hz, measurements become somewhat ambiguous, since there is an unavoidable interaction with the room boundaries. Our composite response curve for the BP 2000, combining the close miked subwoofer response and the room response, had a 6-dB peak-to peak variation between 100 and 200 Hz, which would certainly be different (but probably present to some degree) in any other room, The BP 2000's horizontal dispersion was typical of speakers with drivers of similar size. The output plots on-axis and 45 degrees off-axis remained close up to about 10 kHz, and then the curves diverged by about 5 dB at 13 kHz and 15 dB at 20 kHz. The system's impedance ranged from 4 ohms between 3 and 20 kHz to 16 ohms at 20 Hz.
There were peaks of 14 ohms at 100 Hz and 10 ohms at 1.4 kHz. The speaker's specifications state only that its impedance is compatible with amplifiers designed to drive 4- to 8-ohm loads, which is consistent with our measurements. There was no clear indication of the crossover frequency between the tweeters and midrange drivers in anything we measured or heard, which is actually as it should be. The preliminary specifications for the BP 2000 include a 90-dB sensitivity rating, a bandwidth of 15 Hz to 30 kHz (!), and a recommendation for use with main system amplifiers rated between 30 and 300 watts per channel (which encompasses virtually every high-fidelity amplifier on the market). We measured the system sensitivity at 1 meter with a 2.83-volt input of noise (equivalent to 1 watt into 8 ohms) as 92 dB sound-pressure level (SPL), slightly higher than rated. That suggests (and we verified) that the BP 2000 can be driven to lease-breaking levels by just about any receiver or amplifier, with a wide margin of re serve power. The main-system drivers had no difficulty handling all the power our test amplifier could muster in single-cycle tone bursts 860 watts at 1 kHz into the woofers and 1,280 watts at 10 kHz into the tweeters.
We measured the subwoofer distortion with a steady-state 2.25-volt input to the system (equivalent to a 90-dB SPL system output). The distortion (largely third-harmonic) was, to our surprise, not spectacularly low, ranging from 6 percent at 30 Hz to about 2 percent at 100 Hz and higher. It climbed steeply at lower frequencies, to about 18 percent at 20 Hz. That is not significantly different from what we have measured from some good conventional speakers that are smaller and less expensive than the BP 2000.
On the other hand, the BP 2000 can be driven to truly room-shaking levels in the low bass without much audible evidence of subwoofer (or any other) distortion. We measured average room levels (with musical program material) of close to 105 dB in some of our listening tests. As with any speaker, the ultimate proof of performance is in the listening.
Over the years I have heard a few (very few!) speakers, usually at industry shows, that overwhelmed me and were clearly superior to almost any- thing else I had heard prior to that time. Without exception, those speakers were far more expensive (by a factor of many times), and usually much larger, than the BP 2000. I never had the opportunity to live with those speakers and listen to them at length with material of my own choosing, and the specific program material plays an enormous role in one's listening impressions.
The Definitive Technology BP 2000 is the first speaker I have been able to audition in my own familiar surroundings that has given me that special thrill that usually costs ten or more times its price to obtain. When I heard it demonstrated at the 1995 Winter Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas, I knew it was something special, and the more I listen to it now the more that feeling is confirmed.
For one thing, driven by even a modestly powered amplifier, it can play louder than I can imagine anyone would normally want to listen, yet without audible distortion. This speaker is just loafing along at any level one would reasonably use in a home. The bipole configuration generates a pleasingly natural stereo stage, and the sub woofers provide a foundation that you can feel as much as hear. Frankly, if circumstances allowed, I would choose these speakers for my self. Alas, space and decor considerations make that impractical.
And I hate to pass up a bargain like this one! Consider what you get for $3,000: two first-rate bipolar speakers, two 15-inch subwoofers, and two 300-watt amplifiers, all packaged in two attractively styled columns that occupy one square foot each of floor space. I doubt that you can get a better sounding system for less than several times the price of the BP 2000. And one more thing: You don't need exotic equipment to get high-caliber sound from a pair of BP 2000's.
The speaker was demonstrated at CES with very high-end cables and amplifiers. I used a 75-watt receiver and 14-gauge Radio Shack speaker wire, and I doubt that an additional $20,000 spent on that end of the system would have made any appreciable improvement.
The BP-2000 is, price notwithstanding, a remarkable value. Definitive Technology, Dept. SR, 11105 Valley Heights Dr., Baltimore, MD 21117 Source: Stereo Review (09-1995) by Julian Hirsch Next All Related Articles Updated: Tuesday, 2016-09-27 21:18 PST.
Founded in 1990 by Sandy Gross, Don Givogue and Ed Blais, Definitive Technology
used a unique combination of great design and technology, slick cosmetics, and razor sharp marketing to beat the established players at their own game and claim its own spot at the top of the cutthroat affordable high end loudspeaker market. Definitive focused on the then-budding concept of home theater and provided designs specifically focused on it but also with enough refinement to excel in music-only settings. Eventually, in late 2004, Directed Technologies, the world's largest vehicle-security and remote-start company and owner of the Viper, Clifford, Orion, a/d/s, Precision Power, and Python brands (among others), bought Definitive as its entry into home audio and home theater and has kept the brand's standards high.
Additional Resources
• Read more floorstanding speaker reviews from HomeTheaterReview.com.
Part of its BiPolar series featuring five 'Supertower' floorstanding designs with built-in powered subwoofers, three passive floorstanding bipolar designs, and four surround designs, the BP7006 ($649.00 each, MSRP) is the smallest of the Supertower models. As a bipolar design, it features one front and rear driver array, each utilizing one high-definition cast-basket 4.5-inch bass/midrange driver coupled to a 1-inch annealed Pure Aluminum dome tweeter. For the low end, the BP7006 employs one patented 8-inch side-firing subwoofer driven by a 300-Watt class D amplifier, and two pressure-coupled 8-inch Low Bass passive radiators.
The tweeters and midranges are mounted on a slim baffle to reduce diffraction, which is lowered further by the BP7006's rounded, grill-less monocoque cabinet covered by a black sock. The rock-solid cabinet, made from medite, features extensive bracing and damping to reduce internal standing waves. The cabinet is topped by a thick top plate finished in gloss black. Measuring 38.125 inches high by 6.25 inches wide by 11.5 inches deep and weighing 49 pounds, the BP7006 is a slim, stout, not-too-tall offering that stays out of the way and looks great. The back panel integrates beautifully into the cabinet and features a pair of five-way, gold-plated binding posts, a single RCA input for LFE signals, and a subwoofer volume control.
The BP7006 provides stabilizer bars and a spiking kit to facilitate placement on most floor surfaces. The fit and finish of the BP7006 is amongst the best in its class. Parts quality is high, the look is slick, and it weighs enough to clearly indicate there's a lot going on inside. Watch out for the sock covering the cabinet, however - it's a little on the thin side, and could wear out fast in high-traffic environments. It also doesn't come off, which may not appeal to those wanting the last shred of fidelity.
Sound
The BP7006 was evaluated with no LFE input and the subwoofers facing inward, using only music sources. Even with the powered subwoofers handling the low bass, the BP7006 still needed good quality power to sound its best. Average quality power sources didn't come close to driving it properly.
The BP7006 was evaluated with no LFE input and the subwoofers facing inward, using only music sources. Even with the powered subwoofers handling the low bass, the BP7006 still needed good quality power to sound its best. Average quality power sources didn't come close to driving it properly.
The BP7006 threw an exceptionally wide, deep soundstage with very crisp imaging and lots of information coming from outside the speakers. The bipolar design really flourishes in these areas, offering a big, spacious, holographic presentation that really captivates. You need space behind and next to it, of course, for those extra drivers to breathe, but if you can provide that the rewards are huge. The top end had a light, airy quality that sounded better with rock and electronic material. While it stayed on the right side of smooth, and had just enough detail and speed with classical, acoustic and jazz material, it could have used a bit more of an edge and overall musical quality. The blend into the midrange was very smooth, and almost seamless. The mids also had a lighter balance on piano and vocals, but still offered enough weight and bite to retain musicality. The midrange lacked the honkiness that many 'budget' speakers have, which was refreshing. Instead, the balance needed a little more meat in the lower mids to round things out, but that was only apparent on the occasional acoustic and vocal track. Overall, the mids had a good balance of speed and substance.
Continue reading about the BP7006 loudspeaker on Page 2.